Surfing takes a certain type of person—you either grew up doing it your whole life and are immersed in the surfing culture around you. Or you picked it up at some point and fell completely head over heals in love for it. There are no “yeah, surfing is fine” people out there. You are either call yourself a surfer or you don't. Have you ever been in the ocean when a giant waves starts to creep up on you? How does that wave make you feel? Terrified or excited? A real surfer would say excited. When…